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REVIEWS FOR:

Holiday Coffees

By Kenneth Davids
November 1st, 1999

90

Caravan Coffee

Finca La Tacita, Estate Peaberry

Review Date: Nov 1999

Full yet majestically buoyant. The aroma soars with sweet nut notes, the cup glistens with fruit and flowers, the entire impression is gentle but enormous. The finish is aggressively dry but saved from astringency by rich cocoa tones.

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89

Allegro Coffee

Celebration Caffe

Review Date: Nov 1999

Alive with the slightly wild fruit and dry-wine tones of the great dry-processed coffees of Yemen and Ethiopia. In the wonderfully long, sweet finish the fruit tones darken deliciously toward chocolate.

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87

Green Mountain Coffee

Vermont Country Blend

Review Date: Nov 1999

The aroma is magnificent: high, sweet and singing. The cup is gently bright, with a pear or apple sweetness and a touch of pungency in the mid tones. The slight green tones are so sweet they 're more meadowy than grassy.

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86

St. Ives Coffee Roasters

Jamaican Blue Mountain – Mavis Bank

Review Date: Nov 1999

Understated, barely felt dry tones animate a roundly balanced cup embellished by teasing hints of deep-toned fruit and a shimmer of flowers. In the rich, long finish the fruit modulates toward chocolate. As the coffee cools a slight flatness mars the profile, perhaps a drying fault. I evaluated this coffee mainly on the basis of its full, lovely balance when hot.

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86

St. Ives Coffee Roasters

Malulani Estate

Review Date: Nov 1999

This intriguing, low-toned coffee is neither balanced nor coherent, but definitely engaging. The rather hard first impression instantly softens and sweetens, revealing odd, richly herbal notes. The herbal notes persist in the aftertaste, haloed by sweetness.

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86

Intelligentsia Coffee

The Elves Imperial Breakfast Blend

Review Date: Nov 1999

Dry acidy tones combine nicely with a restrained roasty pungency. Good, deep dimension, but little sweetness to support the deeply tart fruit notes.

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85

Java Trading Company

Christmas Blend

Review Date: Nov 1999

A dry but lively dark roast with a nutty, spicy twist at its pungently roasty heart. Rather light, roast-attenuated body, but the finish is buoyant, almost effervescent, with a subliminal hint of chocolate.

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85

Java Trading Company

Italian Roast

Review Date: Nov 1999

A pure, classic dark-roast gesture. Unusually full body for a roast this dark: smooth, balanced, round in the cup, with a sweetness at the core of the dark-roast pungency that opens like a glimpse of a meadow through a curtain of pines.

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85

Mountanos Brothers Coffee Company

Holiday Blend with Spices

Review Date: Nov 1999

Pleasant and interesting, although to my taste the coffee component is not quite sweet or heavy-bodied enough to completely support the spice. A sharp tickle of pepper and clove with a hint of cinnamon sweetness complicates a straightforward, low-key cup.

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83

Caravan Coffee

Turkish Delight

Review Date: Nov 1999

A big-bodied darkish blend with hints of sweet fruit that doesn 't quite get off the ground. The heart of the coffee remains sweet and full but rather inert. Perhaps best in the long aftertaste, when the sweet tones are freed of the gritty encumbrances of body and texture.

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83

Starbucks Coffee

Christmas Blend

Review Date: Nov 1999

The earthy tones of the Indonesias dominate, sweet in the nose but dry and cocoa-like on the palate. A hint of winy fruit tries to raise its head above the dry earth and cocoa but subsides into the taciturn briskness of the cup.

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