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REVIEWS FOR:

Supermarket Coffees

By Kenneth Davids
January 1st, 2000

86

Trader Joe's

Moka Java

Review Date: Jan 2000

Floral, sweet, high-toned and as giddy as a field of flowers, with some pungent richness and substance underneath. Ramps down toward clean cocoa tones in the finish.

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83

Nestle USA

MJB Hawaiian Blend

Review Date: Jan 2000

Low-toned but solid, with a nice balance of understated acidy tones and sweetness. Some muted dry fruit notes contribute a throaty murmur in the background. Lacks intensity and range, but sound, round and satisfying.

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82

Buena Vista Coffee (Jewel-Osco)

Breakfast Blend

Review Date: Jan 2000

A subdued cup, but pleasantly balanced with pungent and sweet tones that together read as prunes, dried fruit or, in a bit of a stretch, chocolate.

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81

Kraft Foods

Yuban 100% Colombian

Review Date: Jan 2000

Sweet yet dryly bright, lightly acidy with shimmers of wine and flowers. As the coffee cools the grace notes settle toward chocolate. Not much body, dimension or staying power, but a lively, balanced cup.

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81

Nescafé (Nestle USA)

House Blend

Review Date: Jan 2000

An understated dark-roast profile: distinctly bitter, but with a hint of elevating sweetness and an elegant little shimmer of fruit and flowers.

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79

Trader Joe's

French Roast

Review Date: Jan 2000

This blend expresses the usual bitter-but-sweet paradox of dark-roast coffees with particular intensity. The sweetness is almost sugary and the burned bitterness dramatically sharp. Not much range, development or weight, but the cup does offer a pleasant tickle of fruit and lavender. The bitterness outlasts the sweetness in the aftertaste.

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78

Eight O'Clock Coffee

Dark Roast

Review Date: Jan 2000

Just enough sweetness to make the smoky, burned tones bittersweet and cocoa-like rather than simply bitter. And just enough lightness and lift to keep the burned tones from smothering the palate.

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78

Kraft Foods

Maxwell House Rich French Roast

Review Date: Jan 2000

Remarkably sweet, and rather heavy-bodied. The sweetness here is purely a taste sensation, however. No fruity or other aromatic nuances complicate it. The only intrigue is provided by a hint of hardness or mustiness.

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77

Starbucks Coffee

House Blend

Review Date: Jan 2000

When hot, understated but pleasantly sweet, with a hint of spicy fruit complicating the mildly burned, pungent tones. The aftertaste is unyieldingly bitter, however, and when the cup cools the coffee lands on the palate with a flat, unrelieved, carbon-toned thud.

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76

Procter & Gamble

Folgers Aroma Roasted

Review Date: Jan 2000

I 'd call this heavy-bodied coffee rich if there was anything to be rich. The aroma is pleasantly sweet, but the cup displays -- quite literally -- no flavor whatsoever, only primary taste sensation, a sort of heavy emptiness with insinuations of bitterness and sweetness.

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74

Chock Full O'Nuts Coffee

Chock Full O’Nuts

Review Date: Jan 2000

The aroma is faint and faintly sweet. The cup displays a pruny fruitiness that plays peek-a-boo with a distinctly unpleasant rubbery taste. In the finish the sweetness prevails, though barely.

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73

Eight O'Clock Coffee

Original Blend

Review Date: Jan 2000

Overwhelmingly musty. If you don 't understand musty, imagine the smell (or taste) of old shoes at the bottom of a damp closet. The mustiness is haloed with sweetness when the cup is hot, but as the coffee cools nothing remains except mustiness: flat and oppressive.

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72

Procter & Gamble

Folgers Coffee House French Roast

Review Date: Jan 2000

Absolutely neutral. I kept telling myself that I had to be tasting something, but I couldn 't say what: a vague heaviness with a hint of sweetness, perhaps.

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71

Nestle USA

Hills Brothers French Roast

Review Date: Jan 2000

A pleasant, if slight, hazelnut sweetness hovers in the aroma. The cup is vaguely sweet but essentially tasteless except for a hint of pungency probably deriving from hard or musty blend components.

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