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REVIEWS FOR:

New Crop Sumatra Coffees

By Kenneth Davids
February 1st, 1999

88

R & R Beans

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Feb 1999

A solid, bordering-on-classic Sumatra profile: low-toned but rich, pleasantly pruny, its distinct pungency saved from bitterness by a sweetness that grows in power as the coffee cools.

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85

Willoughby's Coffee & Tea

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Feb 1999
Willoughby's Coffee & Tea Logo

A rather refined profile, lighter and sweeter than most Sumatras, with clean hints of fruit and flowers under the usual Sumatra pungency. Much more expansively buoyant at the top of the profile than the other Sumatras in the cupping.

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84

Timothy's World Coffee

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Feb 1999

When the cup was hot I thought I had hit the Sumatra jackpot, something close to the great Sumatras of pre-Starbucks days, when Sumatra was an exotic secret shared by a handful of professionals and enthusiasts. Rich, burgundy-like fullness, gathering under the back edges of the tongue, with just enough acidity to set off dark tickles and echoes. However, a slightly bitter and salty aftertaste gave away this coffee's weakness, which became abundantly clear as the cup cooled: just enough hardness to dampen an otherwise splendid profile.

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80

Alpen Sierra Coffee Roasters

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Feb 1999

Distinctive but limited. The strength of the cup is a powerfully smoky, carbony center with pleasing hints of dry chocolate. Little sweetness or range, however, making it a bit of a Johnny-one-note (though it's a rather exotic note).

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79

The Coffee Roaster

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Feb 1999

The roast dominates the coffee here, overlaying the mouth-filling Sumatra richness with distinct carbon tones. The result is a dry, pungently full profile, powerful but a bit to astringent for my taste.

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79

Alpen Sierra Coffee Roasters

Decaf Sumatra

Review Date: Feb 1999

The dark roast style develops a subdued sweet-sweat pungency and attractive cedar tones in the aroma, but the cup disappoints. Not so much flat as underpowered: light-bodied, little range or dimension, with the main pleasure a gentle, unassuming bittersweetness.

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79

Great Northern Gourmet Coffees

Organic Sumatra

Review Date: Feb 1999

Assuming classic and earthy are not mutually exclusive terms, this is a classically earthy Sumatra: a round, muted but full earth taste gently dominates the profile. Apparently the earth taste comes from drying the coffee directly on the ground rather than on tarpaulins, the usual practice in Sumatra. Although the earth tones are wonderfully soft, overall the profile suffers from a slight bitterness.

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78

Klatch Coffee

Sumatra

Review Date: Feb 1999
Klatch Coffee logo

Another Sumatra with intrigue, but more murky than mysterious. The aroma is marvelous, alive with vanilla and sweet aromatic wood tones, but the cup settles down into a heavy smokiness unrelieved by lift or sweetness. Hints of dry chocolate turn tobaccoish in the finish.

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78

Starbucks Coffee

Decaf Sumatra

Review Date: Feb 1999

Another decaf-ravaged Sumatra: Here the aroma is as subdued as the cup. A touch of carbon from the roast and a bit of sweet tobacco from the Sumatra, but not much else: clean, low-toned, empty.

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77

Starbucks Coffee

Sumatra

Review Date: Feb 1999

Under the taste of the darkish roast style earthy, but not a sweet or inviting earth. A bit hard (no pun), without depth, bounce or resonance. A tobaccoey, salty tickle in the finish.

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77

Salt Spring Roasting Company

Sumatra Dark Roast

Review Date: Feb 1999

A clean profile, but a bit flat. No sweetness, no lift, little dimension. Deep but opaque.

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