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94

Paradise Roasters

Sumatra Danau Toba

Roaster Location: Ramsey, Minnesota
Coffee Origin: Lake Toba region, North Sumatra Province, Sumatra, Indonesia
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 50/74
Review Date: November 2008
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Lavishly sweet and deeply pungent aroma. Grapefruit, cherry, moist leaf notes carry from aroma to cup to finish. Richly resonant acidity, dense body and a continued great sweetness and intense pungency in the cup. The finish is very slightly astringent but resonantly flavor saturated.

Notes

A traditional Sumatra of the type usually called Mandheling or Lintong from the classic growing regions near Lake Toba. It shares some of the unorthodox character of the regional type: a hint of earth, low-acid fruit, dense mouthfeel. This particular Sumatra adds a powerful sweetness and complexity to that traditional profile, however. Paradise Roasters prides itself on roasting and shipping coffee only after orders are placed. Its metaphoric mission is to bring some paradisiacal warmth from the coffee-growing south to the cool environs of Minnesota. Visit www.paradiseroasters.com or call 763-433-0626 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

A classic Sumatra, perfect in its earth-inflected imperfection.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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