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96

Terroir Coffee

Kenya Ndiara Full Flavor Roast

Roaster Location: Acton, Massachusetts
Coffee Origin: Kirinyaga growing district, Central Kenya
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 56/75
Review Date: December 2008
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 9
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

A fresh, buoyant sweetness carries through the profile like a spring reverie. In the aroma: cherryish fruit, flowers, nut, a hint of honey. In the cup tartly rich acidity, syrupy mouthfeel. In the cup flowers and a perfectly ripe but pungently crisp fruit with a hint of lemon. Rich finish.

Notes

Despite stresses brought on by social unrest, charges of corruption and a confused transition toward an open market, the famed Kenya coffee auction system and its participating cooperatives continue to produce some of the world?s most elegant and distinctive coffees. This particular Kenya is produced on the Ndiara Estate, an eight-acre farm in the Kirinyaga district on the southern slope of Mt. Kenya. The coffee is made up entirely of the famous Bourbon-derived SL-28 variety of Arabica, the variety that produces most of the finest coffees of Kenya. Terroir is a microroaster selling only elite single-origin coffees, no blends. It specializes in medium roast styles designed to foreground the character of the green coffee. Terroir is the creation of George Howell, one of the world's leading coffee visionaries. Visit www.terroircoffee.com or call 866-444-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

A superb Kenya as tartly sophisticated as it is seductively sweet.

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This review originally appeared in the December, 2008 tasting report: Holiday Gift Coffees 2008: The Rare, the Exceptional, the Weird

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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