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96

Atomic Cafe Coffee Roasters

Kenya Peaberry Ruera Estate

Roaster Location: Beverly, Massachusetts
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya.
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 46/54
Review Date: May 2008
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 9
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Symphonically rich coffee of extraordinary elegance. Crisp dry berry notes of the kind often characterized as black currant, orange, nut, dusk flowers run through the profile from aroma to cup. Powerful acidity enveloped in sweetness, lightly syrupy mouthfeel. The black currant notes in particular carry into a long, pure, sweet-toned finish.

Notes

Despite national coffee leadership marred by confusion and recent social disorder, Kenya cooperatives continue to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. This sample consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Atomic Cafe is a coffee house on the North Shore of Massachusetts that began its refined in-house roasting program in 2005. Visit www.atomicafe.com or call 978-922-0042 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Difficult to imagine who would not enjoy this grand Kenya, a coffee both powerful and accessible.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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