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REVIEWS FOR:

Supermarket Coffees

By Kenneth Davids
May 1st, 1997

89

Millstone Coffee Company

Breakfast Blend

Review Date: May 1997

Herbal tones in the aroma turn spicy and fruity in the cup. The fruit nuances in the acidity lift the top of the profile and keep it light and shimmering all the way through to finish and aftertaste. Enough bottom for resonance.

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82

Nestle Beverage Company

MJB Hawaiian Blend

Review Date: May 1997

For a canned coffee, considerable aroma: full, complete, with a silky, slightly vanilla-toned sweetness that grows in power as the coffee cools. Enough acidity to keep the coffee from dying, and a solid if obvious bottom.

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79

Melitta

Traditional Premium Roast

Review Date: May 1997

The aroma is complete but fades quickly. The acidity is bright, clear, and classic, hovering on the edge of winy. Some resonance echoes under the acidity, but both pleasure and complexity are concentrated at the top of the profile.

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77

Procter & Gamble

Folger Mountain Grown Coffee

Review Date: May 1997

The aroma is slight but lively; the acidity is bright, classic and lightly assertive, remaining safely if precariously on the right side of sour. The bottom notes provide just enough ballast for the relatively buoyant acidity.

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74

Procter & Gamble

Folgers French Roast

Review Date: May 1997

A somewhat darker-than-supermarket-norm roast style helps mute acidity and sweeten the profile. Virtually no top notes, but a smooth, sweet-toned bottom with an attractive pruny finish.

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73

Trader Joe's

Moka Java

Review Date: May 1997

Superb aroma: full, rich, stretching from winy top notes to a deep, engaging bottom. But the wine-like East African acidity turns hard in the cup, then reveals clear fermented notes as the coffee cools. The Java component is weak, failing to provide the expansive bottom such blends call for.

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71

Nestle Beverage Company

Hills Bros. Coffee

Review Date: May 1997

A sweet nuttiness dominates here, without offense but also without much intrigue or energy. The nut-like tones may harbor a hint of acidity but no grace notes and little depth or dimension.

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71

Yuban Coffee Company

100% Colombian

Review Date: May 1997

A deep bottom with just enough acidity to keep from the coffee from imploding into dullness. Other than the rather full body I read few signs of the Colombia profile in this decent but hardly exciting coffee.

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70

Safeway, Inc.

Colombian Supremo

Review Date: May 1997

For a moment, somewhere between nose and finish, this coffee struck me as rich with its nut and vanilla tones. But overall a thin-toned acidity dominates: an edgy, almost sour distraction without grace notes or resonance.

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68

Lucky Stores

Lady Lee Coffee

Review Date: May 1997

The vanilla / nut tones in the aroma fade quickly in the cup, giving way to a rather hard, characterless acidity that eventually takes on prune-like inflections in the finish.

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65

Kraft Foods

Maxwell House Master Blend

Review Date: May 1997

Low-toned to the point of flatness. A hard, slightly metallic taste is the only sign of acidity. A sweet sensation that reads as vanilla in the nose and prune in the finish is the only saving virtue.

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60

Eight O'Clock Coffee

Original Bean Coffee

Review Date: May 1997

Fermented notes, barely detectable in the acidy notes of the aroma, dominate in the cup, particularly as the coffee cools, turning from mild distraction to barnyard nasty.

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