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REVIEWS FOR:

Decaffeinated Coffees

By Kenneth Davids
August 1st, 1997

84

Millstone Coffee

Decaf Colombian Supremo

Review Date: Aug 1997

Solid, balanced, with a slightly winy acidity wrapped in a substantial body, all characteristics of a good Colombia. But again, these virtues seem attenuated. The complexity is confined to the middle registers, with both top and bottom notes pinched off. A slight sweetness fills out the profile in the finish.

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84

The Roasterie

Decaffeinated Kenya AA

Review Date: Aug 1997

A rather distinctive coffee marked by a clear, winy acidity that some would call bright and others sharp. I lean toward bright with rough edges. The acidity is so dominating that I had a difficult time reading the body: I finally concluded medium. And the broken record rasps: intriguing first impression but not much behind it.

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83

The Roasterie

Decaffeinated Sumatra Mandh.

Review Date: Aug 1997

A sweet-toned acidity, a sort of subdued brightness, enlivens this medium-bodied coffee. The sweetness reads with considerable complexity: as vanilla in the nose and fruit-toned chocolate in the cup. Once these nuances have pleased us, however, nothing further turns up. No depth, no teasing secrets. Still, the elegantly complex top notes make this coffee one of the standouts in the cupping.

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83

Ancora Coffee Roasters

Decaffeinated Sumatra Mandh.

Review Date: Aug 1997

Little acidity and not much at the top, but balanced and complete in the middle ranges. Rich, particularly in the nose, although the rich impression doesn't develop beyond the first impression, and tends to fade in the finish.

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83

Starbucks Coffee

Decaffeinated Kenya

Review Date: Aug 1997

The acidity is powerful yet subdued, slightly (and properly, given the origin) winy. Not much depth or resonance, but a nutty sweetness emerges in the finish that surprises, given the origin. The roast contributes some slight carbon tones.

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81

Ancora Coffee Roasters

Decaffeinated Guatemala

Review Date: Aug 1997

The acidity is pronounced, although more fruity and sweet than dry and brisk. Distinct chocolate tones nuance the fruit. The chocolate turns darkly prune-like in the finish, and lingers sweetly in the aftertaste. An attractive and ingratiating coffee, although the rather heavy body remains curiously inert under all the sweetness.

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80

Ancora Coffee Roasters

Decaffeinated French Roast

Review Date: Aug 1997

One of the few coffees in the cupping with resonance and depth. You have to be patient with this coffee and wait for the heavy, pruny, dark-roast pungency to reveal itself in the finish, but it's worth the wait. If this coffee showed some acidity and top notes it might be a real winner. As it is, the attic is bare and all the fun is in the cellar, but that's probably as it should be in something called a French roast.

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79

Ancora Coffee Roasters

Decaffeinated Natural Sidamo

Review Date: Aug 1997

An unusual coffee, probably owing to the dry processing. The aroma is deep, rich, and powerful; the body full. In the cup, however, the power turns rather hard and herbal, almost peppery. Like so many coffees in the cupping, this one promises depth, yet won't let us past a hardness at the bottom of the profile.

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78

PJ's Coffee & Tea

Decaffeinated Colombian

Review Date: Aug 1997

Another coffee with a pleasing first impression. The acidity is deep, fruity, perhaps winy. But there's no cushion or bounce here, and little intrigue beyond the fruity acidity and a touch of carbon. The hard simplicity carries into the aftertaste, although the profile rounds a bit as the coffee cools.

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73

PJ's Coffee & Tea

Decaffeinated Costa Rican

Review Date: Aug 1997

The roast overwhelms the coffee here. The cup is carbon-toned and rather thin-bodied, with little nuance or dimension. Pleasant and without offense, but this Costa Rica's virtues and surprises apparently were left behind in the decaffeination vat and roasting smoke.

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