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REVIEWS FOR:

Single-Variety Coffees: Aficionado Fun

By Kenneth Davids
December 5th, 2011

96

Cafe de Impression

Guatemala Pandora Pacamara Medium-Light Roast

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $25.00/8 ounces

Impressively complex in both structure (sweet, bitter, savory) and aromatics. Pungently rich aroma: black currant, grapefruit, cedar, roses. All carry into the cup, where the pungent, cedary citrus notes are enveloped in almost sugary sweetness. Gently bright acidity; the mouthfeel is lightish in weight but impressively silky in texture. Flavor, particularly sweet citrus, carries deeply into the finish.

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95

Simon Hsieh's Aroma Roast Coffees

Panama Geisha Aroma Roast

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: NT $2600/8 ounces
Simon Hsieh Aroma Roast Coffees Logo

Deep, sweet night flowers, lemon and grapefruit and backgrounded cocoaish dark chocolate in aroma and cup. In the cup a savory hint emerges: bay leaf perhaps. Rich, resonant acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Rather dry but intensely flavor-saturated finish.

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93

Temple Coffee and Tea

Guatemala Hanupu

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $14.50/12 ounces
Temple Coffee Roasters

Delicately bright, honeyish, refreshing. Honey, violet-like flowers, sweetly tart berry in aroma and in cup, where a hint of cocoa complicates. Gently bright acidity; silky mouthfeel. Bittersweet, cocoa-toned finish.

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93

Las Chicas Del Café

Nicaragua Bourbon City Roast

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $15.00/16 ounces

Soft, round, balanced. Quiet aroma: almond, apricot. In the cup complicates and deepens: honey, ripe lemon, cocoaish chocolate, continued almond and apricot. Crisp, juicy acidity; syrupy mouthfeel. Flavor carries persuasively into a sweet-toned finish.

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93

Topeca Coffee Roasters

El Salvado Finca Ayatepeque Natural-Processed Pacamara

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $14.99/12 ounces

Deep, very complex dried-in-the-fruit profile. Fresh fruit notes – tart coffee fruit, red apple, peach – are enveloped in a honeyish sweetness and deepened by suggestions of brandy, fir and just a hint of freshly fallen, composting leaves. Ripely balanced acidity; impressively syrupy mouthfeel. Clean, flavor-saturated finish.

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93

Coffea Roasterie

Ethiopia Gedeo Natural Process

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $18.00/12 ounces

Lushly sweet and honeyish but very complex across a range of sensation. On the sweet side, plum, blueberry and citrus flower; on the pungent, pine and tart lemon. A minty, brandyish dark chocolate fills in the middle. Balanced, juicy acidity; syrupy yet lively mouthfeel. Simplifies just a bit in the finish, though a chocolaty sweetness manages to soften a lean toward drying astringency in the long.

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92

Lone Pine Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Gedeo Microlot

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $16.50/12 ounces

Peachy, strawberryish fruit is balanced by pungent aromatic wood – cedar, pine – in both aroma and cup. Chocolaty hints. Sweet-toned, brandyish acidity; syrupy mouthfeel. Rich short finish; flavor fades in the long and a very slight salty hint emerges.

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91

PT's Coffee Roasting Co.

Panama Finca La Valentiina Geisha

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $59.95/8 ounces

Sweet-toned and honeyish with peach and floral notes balanced by tart fruit: cranberry, mandarin orange. Silky mouthfeel. The peach and floral sweetness dominates in the short finish, though a bracing, drying astringency that has been tracking through the cup all along emerges clearly in the long.

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91

Badbeard's Microroastery

Organic Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Biloya

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $16.95/16 ounces

Delicately complex: black tea, lemon-lime, spicy rose, moist pipe tobacco. Gently bright acidity; lean but silky mouthfeel. Flavor consolidates as cocoa in the crisp finish.

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91

Gimme! Coffee

Honduras Las Penitas II

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $20.00/12 ounces

Pungent, sweetly tart: Cranberry, honey and nectarine-like stonefruit in an intense aroma rounded by a cocoaish dark chocolate in the cup. Rich, fruit-toned acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Fruit and cocoa in particular carry into a slightly dry finish.

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90

Las Chicas Del Café

Nicaragua Yellow Catuai Viennese Roast

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: CAD $15.00/16 ounces

Pungent, deep, rich: gently scorched cedar, dark chocolate, hints of plum and moist, freshly fallen leaves. Roast-muted acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Dark chocolate in particular lingers in a long, resonant finish.

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90

Bird Rock Coffee Roasters

Guatemala El Injerto Maragogype

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $17.00/8 ounces

Smooth, quietly complex: orange, walnut, raisin, honeyish flowers in aroma and cup. Softly crisp, sweet-toned acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. The finish is sweetly rich, with a drying hint in the long.

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90

OQ Coffee Co.

Honduras Finca El Gringacho Yellow Catuai

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $9.99/8 ounces

Ripe, balanced cup. Cocoaish chocolate, lemon, peach, a hint of fir in aroma and cup. Crisply delicate, rather juicy acidity; silky but lean mouthfeel. The dominant cocoa note carries into a slightly drying finish.

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90

Rusty's Hawaiian

Ka’u Coffee Natural Dried Red Caturra

Review Date: Dec 2011
Price: $24.00/8 ounces

Brandy, mint, cocoa and apricot in a quiet but clean dried-in-the-fruit profile. Tart, apple-toned acidity; lightly syrupy mouthfeel. Some flavor persists in the simple, savory-sweet finish.

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